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I know I was wondering what to expect from this Near North restaurant helmed by Katsuji Tanabe of “Top Chef” fame.

As the Tribune reported around the time Barrio opened last summer, look for “Mexican-ish” here.

It's a feast of salt, heat and creaminess, which sums up drunk food just about perfectly. The handsome wood bar takes up nearly half the space, while all the tables are huddled in one corner.

Sure, you get a view of the tiny kitchen, but the energy resides up front by the booze. Even though it sports two patties made with dry-aged beef, my burger came out oddly, um, dry.

Given the promise shown by the other dishes, pluma iberica, a roast pork dish for two, presented well but tasted fairly pedestrian.

Last modified 15-Dec-2019 02:00